SHOULD I TRY TO REPAIR THIS OLD TABLE?

Hello, everyone! We continued to discover for you. In this episode, we will see SHOULD I TRY TO REPAIR THIS OLD TABLE?

I’m ready to wager that the most of us, including myself, have a piece of broken furniture stashed away in the basement (I know I do!). Perhaps one of the legs is broken, or perhaps it simply requires a makeover. You convince yourself you’ll fix it… one day.

I’ve reached the point where I can no longer stand to look at this ancient pine table, which has taken on an orange hue and is covered with deep scratches. Oh, and I almost forgot to say this, but it was missing two of its legs at one time. I finally said that enough is enough. It’s time to breathe some new life into this table!

The table will be refinished to have the appearance of raw wood after it is stripped down to its bare wood state. While I’m at it, I’ll construct new legs for the table and turn it into a folding table by attaching folding leg brackets that I purchased from Amazon. They are highly effective in their use!

How to Resurface a Table Made of Pine Wood

How to Achieve the Appearance of Raw Wood

People are usually wondering if there is a simple way to give antique furniture a new look. To tell you the truth, no. The best course of action is to sand the wood down and give it a new finish. It’s not going to be as hard as you think it would be. It just requires some time and patience on your part.

Take the Table All the Way Down to the Bare Wood
I’ll begin removing the old finish with sandpaper that has an 80-grit grit rating. Allow the orbital sander to do the work while you slowly move in the direction of the grain until you can see the bare wood.

If you are able to remove the hardware so that you have access to all of the surfaces, this will make the job much simpler for you. Because everything was held together with screws, removing the corner brace hardware and the aprons was a simple and straightforward process.

This contour sanding grip will come in handy for me because the aprons have a slight concave profile. You can purchase a set of these, and they come in a variety of diameters, which makes contour sanding a lot simpler.

After that, I will use my orbital sander to complete the flat surfaces, and after that, I will strip the underside of the table as well. After the table was divided up into its component components, doing this became a lot simpler, as can be seen here. And now that I don’t have any of that orange finish on me, I’m already feeling a lot better.

After I have finished stripping all of the surfaces with 80-grit sandpaper, I will inspect the surfaces to ensure that they are free of any obvious scratches or gouges that may have been left behind.

I had a few larger holes that were unable to be sanded down to any significant degree. I made an improvised wood filler by combining some of the sawdust that was created from sanding the table itself with a small amount of glue to create a paste. This allowed the filler to perfectly match the color of the table.

Sanding each and every surface once more with a 120-grit paper will require me to switch grits now that I have a nice flat surface.

It is often helpful to create pencil marks first so that you will be able to evaluate your speed, avoid going over the same location more often than is necessary, and eventually get a lovely even sanding.

After that step is finished, I’ll do it again with 180-grit sandpaper, and then I’ll stop. If you are unsure of what grit to sand to, it is typically mentioned on the label of the finish that you are using. Therefore, whenever there is uncertainty, simply refer to that.

Osmo Top Oil should be used.
If you operate in a confined location like I do, I’ve found that doing all of the sanding in one day, cleaning the room, and then letting the dust settle overnight is the most effective strategy.

Alternately, in my experience, if you go right from sanding to finishing the surface, the dust has a greater chance of settling into the finish.

To complete the look of this table, I will be applying Osmo Top Oil. It is a hardwax-oil that has been developed specifically for use on tabletops and counters. In addition to that, in order to create a great even finish, I’ll use an Osmo fleece applicator.

My preferred method is to begin with circular motions, then conclude with even strokes that go with the grain of the wood. The best feature is that it has a low volatile organic compound (VOC) content, and the finishing can be done in less than a day.

My preferred method is to begin with circular motions, then conclude with even strokes that go with the grain of the wood. The best feature is that it has a low volatile organic compound (VOC) content, and the finishing can be done in less than a day.

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They recommend applying two to three coats, spacing each one out by at least eight hours. Just enough to get rid of any dust nibs, I’ll lightly sand the surface with 320-grit sandpaper before applying the subsequent coat.

I’ll clean up the dust with a tack cloth. After that, I will proceed in the same manner as before to apply the second layer when I do something, I always begin at the bottom and work my way up.

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Construct New Legs for the Table

After I’ve finished sanding the table, the next step will be to construct some new legs for it. Due to the fact that it will be at coffee table height, the legs will be somewhat brief.

Having said that, I believe that a coffee table with legs that are more substantial than the ones it came with will look nicer, so I’m going to double up some 2x4s in order to construct some hefty legs.

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