MODERN NIGHTSTAND with Drawers in a Hexagonal Pattern

Hello, everyone! We continued to discover for you. In this episode, we will see MODERN NIGHTSTAND with Drawers in a Hexagonal Pattern.

Step-by-Step Instructions for Constructing a Mid-Century Nightstand with a Hexagonal Pattern on the Drawer Fronts
I began by milling all of my lumber to its preliminary measurements so that we could get started.

I began by passing each of my boards through the jointer, followed by the planer, and finally completed the process by cutting the final edge on the table saw.

After making sure that all of my boards were perfectly level, I glued together four panels with a width of 13 inches.

I used I’ve decided to give this nightstand mitered corners, but first I need to square off the sides so that I have a reference edge to ride against when I’m working with my fence.

For this, I employed the utilization of my cross-cut sled. After that, I adjusted the miter gauge on my table saw to a 45-degree angle and proceeded to make the bevel cuts.

I started by using my router to cut a little rabbet into each of the panels before moving on to the gluing part of the process. This will make it possible for me to place a rear panel at a later time that, once the carcass is finished, rests flush in the space.

I used the #0 setting on the router to create three biscuit slots on both ends of each board. Anything larger than that will be easily broken through. My experience has shown me that using biscuits makes it much simpler to assemble mitered carcasses.

On top of that, they lend strength to a connection that would otherwise be relatively weak. After that, I got ready to glue the mitered carcass by grabbing my strap clamp and getting in position.

The process of gluing the joints together was a little unnerving, but utilizing the strap clamp to keep everything together while adding parallel clamps and squeezing the joints together was like having an extra set of hands.

According to the information presented in this article, Elmer’s glue-all has an open time of 37 minutes. I utilized it so that I would have a little more breathing room.

After the wood had had enough time to dry, I used my router equipped with a little round-over bit to assist in making the miter joint disappear, and then I sanded away any tool marks left by the router.

At this point, I made a test fit after cutting a back panel to size out of a piece of 1/8-inch plywood. It will be secured with Brad’s nails when I return later, but in the meanwhile, I want to apply my finish, so let’s get started on that.

You would have seen me apply this black finish if you follow me on Instagram. It’s neither paint nor stain, that’s for sure. It is known as India Ink, and although the majority of its applications involve calligraphy, it can also be used to ebonize wood. I will provide a link to the one that I used further down the page.

I applied it in the same manner as paint, being sure to use even strokes and a foam brush, and then I just let it dry. I only needed to apply one coat, and that was sufficient. The beauty of it is that, in contrast, to paint, it exposes the grain of the wood, which, in my opinion, looks very fantastic.

Following the completion of the drying process, I used a wipe-on clear coat finish, and now I’m just buffing it out. I was concerned that the ink could come off, and sure enough, it did, but not enough to make a difference in the finish. I’ll give that a chance to dry before moving on to the base.

In order to construct the base, I began by constructing a template out of scrap plywood and applying hot glue to it. First, I cut three blocks using my miter gauge that was set to 10 degrees, and then I made the inside taped using my tapering jig. This allowed me to construct the outer angled legs for the table.

After that, I cut the parts for the horizontal stretchers, and I assembled the base by using dowels. Watching the video will provide you with additional information that will help you make the base.

It was time to attach the base to the carcass once we had given it the same finish we had used on the base. I turned the carcass over and positioned the base in the middle.

In order to accommodate the movement of the wood, I made the decision to employ Z-clips, which, in hindsight, was perhaps an unnecessary step considering the limited surface area of the base.

It’s time to start working on the drawers now that the frame has been finished entirely. But first, this would be a good moment to insert the back panel, which I had already dyed black and which I had simply attached with a few brad nails.

At this stage, I want to begin working on the drawer fronts that have a hexagonal pattern. In preparation for this, I planned several additional ash boards of varying thicknesses, ranging from one-fourth to one-half inch. This will result in the pattern having a 3D effect, which is something that truly appeals to me.

My hexagon cutting jig will come in handy when it comes time to cut the hexagons. You may view the video I made that demonstrates how to create this jig as well as how to use it by clicking on the link in the previous sentence.

After the initial cut has been done and the stop has been re-clamped into position, all that is left to do is rotate the piece clockwise as you go until you have a hexagon that is perfect. It is quite simple to put into use.

And the thing that I love most about this jig is that it always gives you consistent results; regardless of how you arrange them, the fit is always flawless and lovely, and tight.

After cutting a piece of backer board out of 1/8th ply, I set out the hexagons in a pattern that appealed to me, and then I glued the hexagons together to build drawer fronts out of them.

I worked on the glue-up in stages, putting on each ring individually. putting the inner ring as the starting point. I put a small amount of glue to each piece, and then I used various household items to hold it in place while it dried.