Hello, everyone! We continued to discover for you. In this episode, we will see a FREE STANDING COAT RACK YOU CAN MAKE.

How to Construct a Contemporary Coat Rack

You won’t need a lot of resources to construct this coat rack because it’s so simple. a few pieces that are 2 by 2 and a few that are 1 by 2. I milled up some ashwood that I had lying around, but you could use any other kind of hardwood.

The design is contemporary and purpose-built to provide as much coat storage as possible. It’s a double tree that has two posts at each end. Each pillar has three arms that are positioned at an angle.

A Tree’s Crown

First thing first: I’ll cut the dados for the arms in each of the posts. These joints are angled versions of lap joints. These joints can be cut with a table saw, but I choose to use a miter saw instead because I thought it could produce better results.

You’ll need a sliding miter saw that comes with a depth stop to accomplish this. If you want the blade to be able to bottom out through the cut, you’ll need to add a sacrificial board to the.


On the miter saw, I’ll first set the depth stop, and then I’ll adjust the angle to thirty degrees. After I’ve finished making the first cut, I’ll use the half-arm to mark the opposite side of the joint.

After that, I can complete the task by making the second reference cut on that side and then hogging away the material in the middle.


After the dados have been cut in the posts, I’ll proceed to cut the arms to the appropriate length. First, I’ll use the miter saw to cut off one of the ends of the arms, maintaining the same setting of 30 degrees.

After that, cut each one to the desired length using a stop block.


Before moving on to the next step, I will perform a speedy test fit to ensure that the arms are able to slide easily into the angled lap joint.


One other thing that I need to take care of here is to chamfer the top edges so that they won’t get caught on anything or cause any damage to the items that will be hung from this rack.

Clamping the boards together and adding a sacrificial board at the end will make this process simpler and will help prevent tearout from the router. After that, I’ll use a chamfer bit on my router to run along the edge, and I’ll repeat that process on all four sides.

I also decided to do the same thing to the top of the posts to give them a more streamlined and uniform appearance.



Now that you’ve finished the portion at the top, it’s time to go on to the base, which consists of four pieces that fit together securely. Taking this process one step at a time, the first thing I’ll do is trim each piece using a jig that I manufactured myself.


After I’ve finished cutting the tapers, I can go on to notching the posts in preparation for screwing them in. In a manner analogous to that which was done previously, I will first measure one side and mark it with a combination square.

Next, I will use one of the workpieces to mark the opposite side of the junction.


This time around, I’m going to cut the lap joints with my table saw. First things first, I’ll adjust the height of my blade and then secure it. These notches need to be placed on the interior of each individual component, and they must be lined exactly.

Taping the parts together and cutting them all at once is the simplest approach to taking care of this business. It is beneficial to utilize a miter gauge that has a sacrificial fence attached to it for the purpose of providing additional stability.


After that, I will proceed to cut the half lap joints into each of the base pieces in order to produce an interlocking junction using the same approach.

It is essential that the depth of the blade be precisely equivalent to half the thickness of the stock. In the video that I uploaded on YouTube, I demonstrate an easy method for adjusting this setting.



In order to put together the coat rack, I divided the gluing process into many steps. To begin, I’ll glue the posts to the foundation of the structure. You can see that I utilized some painter’s tape to assist me in controlling the squeeze out.

After everything had had time to dry, the interlocking foundation could be glued and clamped. Last but not least, I will conclude by fastening each of the arms to the tree.



I’m going to finish this coat rack in two different colors, just like the nightstand in the mid-century style that I made: The upper portion is made of natural wood, while the lower portion has a dark, industrial appearance.

Sanding everything down will be followed by the application of two coats of OSMO Polyx-oil to the upper half of the piece. I really like how simple it is to use; all you have to do is rub it on, and then wipe it off. That sums it up nicely.


I intend to paint the bottom half of the piece black, but it will be more than just that. I want it to have an appearance that is almost identical to that of metal, devoid of any apparent joints or even noticeable wood grain.

Because of this, I’m going to utilize the premium wood filler made by DAP. As a grain filler, its extremely fine and light consistency is ideal. I’ll make sure it’s even across the entire base, and then I’ll fill up any gaps I find.

After everything has had time to dry, I will use sandpaper with a grit of 220 to bring everything to a uniform smoothness and flatness. After that, I’ll clean up all of the dust.


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