Build a sturdy elevated workbench for yourself.

Hello, everyone! We continued to discover for you. In this episode, we will see Build a sturdy elevated workbench for yourself.

Using this Do-It-Yourself Standing Desk Converter, any desk can be converted into a standing desk.
This standing desk converter is comprised of four individual pieces, each of which is constructed from plywood with a thickness of three-quarters of an inch.

The pieces are connected using a friction fit and are supported by gravity.

In the video, I go through the process of testing and prototyping in order to figure out the angles, dimensions, and determine whether or not I need to add V-notches to the shelves. I strongly recommend that you watch the video for more information on that procedure; however, I’m going to bypass that step here and go straight into the construction.

Rough Cut, Split Into 4 Parts

I’ll begin by cutting the sheet of plywood into blanks (the total dimensions can be found above), which I’ll do with a track saw. After that, I’ll start shaping each of the individual pieces one at a time.

Adjustable Shelves

The shelves are the most straightforward component. I’ll just make a tongue shape by tracing it onto each shelf, and then I’ll cut it out using my bandsaw and my jigsaw. Either solution will do the trick.

If you have trouble cutting straight lines with a jigsaw, you can use a speed square clamped down as a guide.


The bottom is in the shape of a trapezoid. When I’ve finished outlining it, I’ll use my track saw to further polish the angular design.

I’ll use my bandsaw to cut the curve on the bottom of the piece. My cutting abilities with the bandsaw have never been very strong, as I’ve mentioned before.

At this stage, it is pure wishful thinking to attempt to cut two curves that are identical to one another. Instead, I will make a template out of a piece of waste ply that I have.

In the event that I botch the curve, I will simply construct another one until I am satisfied with how it turned out.

After that, I may fix the template to the base with some double-sided tape, and then use that template in conjunction with a router equipped with a pattern bit to transfer the curve from the base to the workpiece.

Keep in mind that you will still have to cut a curve on the base first; however, all you need to do is make sure that you keep well inside the line, and the router will do the job for you.


It is recommended that you first sketch out the slots on the back board before cutting it to size. The back board, like the base, is in the shape of a trapezoid.

After having traced a center line, the next thing I’ll do is begin at the top and work my way almost all the way down to the bottom, marking every inch. After that, I’ll be able to utilize my template to carefully draw the slots with a pencil.

It is advisable to make use of a combination square in order to be certain that the template (and, consequently, the slots) are absolutely perpendicular to the edge of the board.


To begin cutting the slots, I will first use a Forstner bit that is just slightly smaller than necessary to drill out either end of the slot.

I want to make sure I’m not going outside the boundaries, so I’ll just let the router handle everything else. After that, I’ll use a jig saw to cut away the waste.


I’m going to secure the template to the back board with double-sided tape, and I’ll make sure that it’s lined up properly with the pencil marks. After that, I’ll use a pattern bit to clean out the waste and make each slot more precise.


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